A home for my words.

Let’s Start with ‘The Bad’

I write this all in an effort to stick to my promise of addressing the lows of travel alongside the highs.

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Since I got into Kobe only an hour or so earlier than check-in time, I hoped the hotel might allow me into an available room. I desperately wanted a private shower after having the public onsen as my only option back in Koyasan. But no such luck.

A shower is one of those things that can always serve as a refreshing reset, but especially so when backpacking. The commute from Koyasan was even longer than the one to get there, considering I had to pass through the station in Osaka where I’d originally departed from in order to get to Kobe. I think this plus arriving in yet another new city added to the discombobulation that ensued.

I spent far too long wandering around looking for a restaurant that might have otherwise been obvious and wondered why I’d gone to such lengths to make a stop in Kobe at all. Recognizing that this was stress talking, I sat down to a platter of scalding hot takoyaki and vowed to do better at keeping a level head. I’d chosen Kobe because I needed a well-connected city to fly out of to explore Okinawa next. And I’d created an itinerary for Kobe that I assured myself would be worth sticking to. So even though I was tempted to just crash in the hotel for the rest of the night after finishing my food and showering, I pushed forth.

Once I decided to let go of my frustrations and simply stick to the plan I had for myself, I fell in love with what Kobe had to offer to travelers!

Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens and Ropeway

This was by far my favorite thing I did in Kobe, although I enjoyed everything I did post-shower haha! I think it would make for a *perfect* date and I actually saw a number of couples who seemed to be doing just that. If I had more time, I would have chosen to hike up to the top and only take the ropeway down, but my 24 hours were counting down!

The staff there were so thoughtful. If you came alone, like I did, they actually made a concerted effort to put you on a ropeway pod all by yourself! I saw them do this favor for others as well. If you are leaving the mountain too close to closing time they may start to group everyone together, but I thankfully was able to manage a solo round-trip 🙂 The first stop is the Herb Garden, which I decided to skip on the way up knowing that I was on a time crunch. Plus, I thought if the aerial view was all that I would get, it would be satisfactory enough.

Christmas Market

Most places become more magical around Christmas time, and the top of the ropeway was no exception! A Christmas market was in full effect and the decorations and food offerings added that extra charm inherent to the season.

I wasn’t too hungry after my recent lunch, and I had important dinner reservations that I didn’t want to spoil. So I passed on some delicious looking bites and used my broken Japanese to confirm that I would be allowed to drink wine outside of the shop. I did just that while admiring the plants, wildlife, and happy families around me. Then, I popped into the fragrance museum and bought some lavender essential oil to help me with mindfulness and sleep in the future.

Once I realized I probably had enough time to walk down to the level of the Herb Garden, I made my way there. I ended up being so pleased with that decision. I’d been in other greenhouses in Japan at this point, but this was my favorite one by far!

This was the point when I realized this location would be great for a date that lasted anywhere from half a day to a full day. I didn’t even have time to hang out on the hammocks! It was like skimming through what the experience could be like with more time.

Although I’d told myself to save room for dinner, the idea of ice cream tempted me. Plus the shop where it was sold was going to close soon. I waffled for a bit before giving in.

As if this location wasn’t giving enough date vibes, I stumbled upon the lover’s bell. Perhaps the idea was that ringing it would solidify a union. They had one of the selfie stands I was growing used to seeing around Japan. They were genius and allowed for solo travelers like me or even all members of a group to get a picture together without having to leave anyone out. I considered taking some comical photos showing that I didn’t have a lover to ring the bell with me, but decided against it just in time for a real couple to arrive and contemplate ringing the bell. I smiled when I heard it’s clang on my walk back up to the viewpoint next to the ice cream shop ❤

I decided I had enough time to run back up to the uppermost ropeway stop and did just that. By this point, announcements were being made about the mountain closing for the night soon. There were signs saying they might have to start combining groups into ropeway pods in order to get everyone off the mountain in time, but yet another kind staff member let me on a pod by myself without my even asking.

The Main Event: Kobe Beef

Kobe beef had been the major reason I decided to make a stop in the city. While I’m not big on steak, they say when in Rome. I made sure my reservation was for the last slot of the night so that I could try to maximize my time cruising the area around the ropeway before arriving.

The service was great. I had a glass of red wine and used my Japanese skills to chat up the server who said he was a Kobe-born native.

Post-Dinner Snacking

The meal did not disappoint. I decided to stop at a super swanky wine bar afterwards, but I was early and had the place to myself for 20 minutes or so. The owner and I switched between Japanese and English and he taught me some interesting things until a large group of Japanese business men arrived for their reservation.

When I wrapped up there, I was pretty much stuffed. But my one and only night in Kobe was coming to a close and I wanted to savor it. When I saw a stand selling taiyaki, I went for it. Not because I was craving it, but because it was an item on my Japanese food bingo list! I had to delight in the serendipity.

That area of Kobe was packed with people out to enjoy themselves. I absorbed their energy as fuel for my march back to the hotel and I even tried to take some selfies while speed-walking to surprise a few friends with an update on my trip thus far.

Museum: The Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake Memorial

The next morning, I had a nice cafe breakfast and walked all the way to a museum. I wouldn’t have much time before I needed to grab my bag from the hotel and head to the airport for my flight to Okinawa. Although I could have easily spent half a day at this museum, I did my best with the time that I had.

I assumed it wouldn’t be pretty busy on a weekday, but I forgot about how many school groups take trips to locations like this. There was even a massive group of older men (perhaps on a business trip?) that were visiting on the same day.

No Warning

One thing that shocked me was how there was no seizure warning for the video all visitors must watch upon entering. I don’t usually have trouble with flashing lights, but it was actually overwhelming. I think it was in an effort to get visitor to feel the confusion locals felt during the earthquake, but if you are planning on visiting keep this in mind if it might trigger health issues.

The Lessons Learned

It was a fabulous memorial to what people endured, how they came together, and what lessons can be learned for future earthquakes around the world. There were also some amazingly well done interactive exhibits that children and adults alike could enjoy. Many of the staff members who worked just off of the escalator/elevator points were older. One guy was very curious about how I learned Japanese by myself and how my trip was going. He also spoke English well. We chatted on and off before I apologized, telling him I had to rush back for my hotel checkout. It was always nice to get to use Japanese with locals though. I didn’t spend all those months self-studying for nothing!

Airport Shocker

I’d been worried that I was cutting it close for my flight, but that was far from the case. I had no luggage to check and the security line wasn’t long. But what was of concern is how no one checked for my ID or passport… at all. All security and flight attendants seemed to care about was that my boarding pass swiped green. I mean, I know Japan is a very safe country and all, but that truly stunned me.

I charged my devices, snacked on an octopus onigiri, and stared out at the planes and boats going by. I’d be off to Okinawa soon!