A travel blog

Bariloche, Argentina | What to Do

Down by the Bariloche beach on a cloudy day

I first visited Patagonia in 2022, when I went to both El Calafate and El Chaltén in Argentina as well as Torres del Paine in Chile. So while staying in Mendoza, Argentina three years later, I wasn’t sure if it was worthwhile to visit Bariloche in Northern Patagonia. However, I had three months to spend in Mendoza and Bariloche was only an hour and a half flight away. So, here are some ideas of what you might want to explore if you also have a long weekend in Bariloche:

These flowers were everywhere. (The “Seek” app tells me it is a “Peruvian Lily”)

Hiking

Happy accident: ended up on a different trail than planned.

Refugio Frey

Refugio Frey is one of the most iconic day hikes in Bariloche. You can also opt to stay up at the refuge overnight and then hike back down the next day.

It was a hot day, so it was nice to dip in the cool water once we reached Refugio Frey.
How to get to Refugio Frey Trailhead

I chose to take the 50 bus to Lago Gutierrez Beach since it arrives in the center of Bariloche roughly every 20 minutes. There’s the option to take the 55 bus close to Cerro Catedral, but that one only comes once every two hours.

You may not be able to notice in this photo, but there were climbers up there!
What route to take to Refugio Frey?

I suggest taking the 50 bus, hiking along Lago Guitierrez up to Refugio Frey, then taking the Cerro Catedral trail down to the 55 bus and heading back to Bariloche from there. This maximizes the total amount of scenery you’ll experience. Plus, the Cerro Catedral trail is stunning in reverse order because you have a view of snow-capped mountains the entire way rather than having them behind you. While that requires some planning on your part for your bus ride home, it means you can start the hike as early as you’d like since the 50 bus starts hours earlier than the 55 and runs way more frequently.

This consistent view is why I’d suggest hiking to rather than from the cathedral bus station
One Note

If you take the 50 bus, you walk parallel to Lago Guitierrez until you reach the Refugio Frey trailhead. In everything I’d read online, I actually thought I would be walking along the lakeside the entire time. While you can get down a path to walk along the bank of the lake, if you follow the proper trail path, you spend most of the time walking along a road lined with properties where you occasional get views of the lake.

This is an example of the kind of view you have of Lago Guitierrez as you hike to the trailhead

What to Know About the Refugio Frey Hike

How long will it take to hike up to Refugio Frey?

The hike up to the refuge is about 6 to 7 miles and you’ll gain roughly 2,000 feet in elevation. This takes the average hiker 3-4 hours one way although there were some groups of trail runners who, if they kept the pace I saw them at, could likely finish the run up in about 2 hours.

A field of flowers stopped many in their tracks
What’s the weather like at Refugio Frey?

While I’d read I should be prepared for temps to be significantly colder once I reached the refuge, even in the summer, it was hot the entire way. I had to shed my layers down to a sports bra and wished I’d worn shorts instead. But Bariloche was experiencing temps up to 80°F on that day, so that could be why. Temperatures dropped at least 20 degrees in the days that followed.

A view over the lake as you ascend the Refugio Frey trail

Sendero de los Arrayanes/Cerro Llao Llao

Sendero de los Arrayanes is an easy stroll to do, even for families with children. You can also combine it with the Cerro Llao Llao trail.

The beginning of the hike has cute wooden homes for kids to play in
I enjoyed getting to learn some local sign language across various points near the trailhead
There’s a trail down to a lake that seemed popular with families (and even one large group of scouts)
I sat here for a while and read a book before I decided to keep walking along the lake
I felt like it came to pose for me! (The “Seek” app says this is an “Ashy-headed Goose”)
So many beautiful spots to stop and relax at.

Exploring the town of Bariloche

Views

Much of Bariloche’s town center is quite hilly and not very accessible mobility-wise, but you’ll get some beautiful views while cruising around town.

Here’s a classic example of a view in Bariloche’s town center

Museums

I love museums, but I’ll be honest that the main two in Bariloche aren’t the best. But if it were perhaps raining and you needed something to do to get out of your lodging, they might be worth a shot. The Francisco Moreno Museum of Patagonia is only open on weekdays from 10am-12:30pm and then 2-5pm, but they only accept Argentine pesos. There’s also Museo del Chocolate Havanna, which costs around $7 USD but you can use that entrance fee towards the cost of a chocolatey treat at the end of the tour. Keep in mind though that this tour is only in Spanish.

Dining Out

Best place to eat in Bariloche:
Kilometro Uno Resto – KM1

If you’re looking for good food with a view, Kilometro Uno Resto is your spot! The service was great and I spent my last few hours in town just staring out and the views and wildlife flying about.

A bench on the restaurant’s property. There were some two-seater areas close to the water as well. Imagine having such a view while eating 🙂

If you’re looking for something quick and (mostly) healthy, I suggest Bom Açaí. While açaí bowls can be high in sugar, especially depending on your toppings, I appreciated the chance to add things like protein powder and peanut butter on the two occasions that I stopped in.

Chimi Deli Cocina also does “sin Tacc” or gluten free food and has lots of healthy dishes and some outdoor spots on an interior street in town.

I didn’t try breakfast anywhere because I would just grab hotel breakfast before heading out to hike. The room also came with a refrigerator that I used to store some things as well. Keep in mind that many hotels in Bariloche seem to serve breakfast at around 8am, so if you know you’ll be hiking super early each day, you can consider booking lodging that doesn’t include breakfast. The last thing to keep in mind with food in Bariloche is that it is a tourist town and prices reflect that.

Overall

Bariloche is a good destination for a short trip if you find yourself nearby. I could even see people stopping in Mendoza after Bariloche to rest their sore muscles after so much hiking in Bariloche.

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